Ocean Drive (01/01/2006)
By Leah Reilley Capri has two main towns: Capri Town and Anacapri. The former has the marina and the majority of shops and hotels, and therefore is the more crowded of the two. The latter, Anacapri, is smaller and quieter, more "real," according to the locals, with fewer tourist attractions and amenities. The Hotel Caesar Augustus, a recently renovated boutique hotel perched high upon a cliff overlooking the Bay of Naples, is located here. Sophisticated and cozy, the Caesar Augustus used to be a private residence, and there is still a decidedly homey feel to the place. There's a wellstocked library with comfortable yet elegant furniture and a fireplace. Rooms are large and luxurious, many with terraces that look out to the sea. The grounds are gorgeous, filled with fragrant gardens and flowers. The cantilevered infinity pool is known to be one of the nicest in all Capri. And the restaurant, La Terrazza di Lucullo, is simply superb. This is where I'm staying, and I love it. Each morning I eat breakfast on my terrace, smelling the sage and marjoram from my private garden while I enjoy warm sfogliatelle and cappuccino. I spend the warm, sunny days strolling, sightseeing and shopping. Limoncello is a locally produced, 33-proof liqueur made from lemons and sugarreally good. I buy a bottle of it at a store that distills it fresh on the premises. Each evening I return to the hotel for dinner. The regional cuisine served is so delicious I can't seem to stop eating. Scialatielli, the restaurant's signature dish, is a thick, homemade pasta cooked with garlic, olive oil, crushed almonds, grated lemon peel, green olives and capers. Amazing. Another great pasta dish is ravioli alla Caprese handmade ravioli filled with ricotta and marjoram that you will find all over Capri but is especially delicious here. I eat those dishes and morelentil soup with scampi and cherry tomatoes; octopus carpaccio drizzled with olive oil and lemon; potato, smoked mozzarella and sausage pie, topped with crispy pancetta-all served with Falanghina, the crisp, local white wine. I highly recommend a meal at La Terrazza di Lucullo.